Author: Chef M

For our gluten-free version of this classic bar cookie, we started with the topping. Plenty of lemon juice plus a whopping ¼ cup of lemon zest ensured plenty of bright flavor, while butter and heavy cream added richness. This filling also needed some form of thickener so that it could set up and slice neatly. Some recipes rely on flour, but we found that eggs delivered better results. Seven yolks plus two whole eggs gave our filling a smooth, custard-like texture that set up just enough without obscuring the pure, clean lemon flavor. Next, we moved on to the base.…

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There are two big issues with most gluten-free cookies: off-flavors and a dry, tough texture. But given the huge amount of flavor and moisture melted chocolate provides, you’d think that making a great gluten-free chocolate cookie would be easy. Not so fast. Even the most promising recipes we tried failed us, with subpar flavor and a pervasive dry texture. So we started by amping up the chocolate flavor; in addition to melted chocolate, we loaded our dough with chips, cocoa powder, and a little espresso powder. To address the texture, we began by tinkering with the sugar. Cookies made with…

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Koch is the Austrian word for a small dessert somewhere between a pudding and a soufflé lighter than a pudding but much more stable than a soufflé. It works best in baking dishes with straight sides.

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Salzburger nockerl (sweet dumplings) are very sensitive soufflés, which means you have to be very exact during preparation. The timing plays a large role. You have to wait for the nockerl and not the other way around: When the nockerl are ready, they should be enjoyed right away.

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I know you can buy a tub of baba ganoush from almost any delicatessen but can I tell you the flavour of one you make from an eggplant picked from your own garden will astound you. I’m so obsessive that even when making it commercially, as we sometimes do, I will only do so when the grower picks them for us and we make it next day, using a robust extra virgin olive oil. As with all simple recipes, it’s the details that make the difference.

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